Fendi’s Odd design Choices Take Lackluster Approach to Spring
Fendi’s spring/summer collection of 2023 premieres at New York Fashion Week.
As a relative fashion newbie, I have the pleasure of not knowing many designers and their starts or those that came before. Of course this could be perceived as a disadvantage, but I see it as the contraire. I am the piece of fashion that still exists. I present to you - The Average Woman. Meaning I work a 9-5 and go to school full time, so practical fashion that is stylish is something that will always catch my eye. That being said, when watching the spring/summer 2023 it was clear to me that the style of the everyday woman was what Kim Jones was going for but in a more classy, “I have more money than you do” kind of way. But in this review I won’t look at the collection with that lens, but simply a blank slate. Or I’ll try at least.
Elephant in the room: Green. Green. And more green and an interesting shade to say the least. Though it’s more than this almost grass but almost puke green that ruins takes the collection to an abrasive level, but it’s the way it’s used entirely that feels so in your face without actually making a mark. With this shade in particular, it feels as though Jones and accompanying assistance want so badly for this shade to go viral. I don’t mean viral in a TikTok or Valentino Pink kind of way, but that they want it to be in all the Zara’s across the globe. And maybe it will be - since we know Zara isn’t opposed to signature colours - but because of this possible intent, the collection feels unnecessary and something I actually want to turn away from instead of run toward.
Aside from the colour, the Japanese influence in this collection is subtle, but obvious when looking at how patterns are used and placed and how the synching of belts is used as well. Watching the beige, half synched with a thick belt and one loose side jacket walk down the runway was something pleasing to the eye. Actually, it seems that the coats within the collection are the best part and stand far above the rest of its pieces.
With this coat in particular, it feels like something that will definitely be on the shelves this Winter leading up to spring. This coat I think will be popular amongst working women who want to elevate their look without standing out too much. It’s simple yet adds a flare with its opposing sides. It’s safe as most of the collection is, but usable for the public and I wouldn’t be shocked to see chains selling it this March.
Tailoring was an interesting thing with the coats hemmed to the hips. This is where the coats really caught my eye. The tailoring of this coat wraps around in the front and almost hugs the body which I think is a great detail for this jacket and contrasts the rest of the collection’s loose tailoring. Another uses different materials by taking matte and shiny materials and contrasting them. This piece was the star in my pupils compared to the lacklustre closing and opening looks and it looks to be something people will have intrigue in though I can't say the same for the rest of the collection.
It may not sound like it, but some small details of this collection I actually did enjoy. While not entirely innovative, the fuzzy purses I think would have looked fun and childlike in an entirely different collection, though I hate to say I feel like their potential was wasted. There was simply cohesion that was missing and made the bags look out of place where they could have added so much. Although I say that, I feel that the chunky metal straps of the bags were a touch that felt fun and taking a classic and elevating it slightly - similar to the technicality of the coats. But that’s where my compliments end other than selective dresses that were flattering and wispy.
The patterns. Sigh. The patterns. I won’t bother giving them the same review by saying that they are something that could be seen in department stores because they already have been. Specifically on this sheen dress paired with a second sheer layer underneath it and knee high combats it felt cheap - the shiny material being repeated in the collection didn’t help either. The large flower-things (I say this because I had no idea what they were supposed to be) gave me strong flashbacks of large print flowers that were extremely popular from 2011-2014 and reminded me why they only lasted 3 years.
With each ensemble it looked to me that the mismatched materials - even as the colours were cohesive - felt thrown together in a way that did nothing for me. There was simply a lack of attraction in the collection and I was struggling to see what about this collection was supposed to be ground breaking or even just fun.
