The Year 2005 is Back with a Mermaid Twist
designer: nicola brognano
collection: “underwater”
Bluemarine spring/summer 2023
It's time to get serious. I have to admit that themed looks have enormous potential within them. I believe that the beauty of a themed collection starts from the drawing board and whether it goes up or downhill from there is something that each designer and creative team has to keep a crucial eye one. I have to admit something else - Nicola Brognano and the team behind him definitely had that eye out from the very beginning. Brognano brings his idea of what a mermaid is to the light with denim fabrics, scandalous cut outs and the inspiration of early 2000’s fashion that the gen z and younger millennials have been styling these past two years. With the looks given in Bluemarine’s Milan show, I’d say that this is definitely not for the modest person but also has the power to be just that with a few extra layers. The collection’s versatility gives a lot to the table and with the right wearer can be worn in the most unexpected locations and events (coming from a person whose uniform is a miniskirt of course).
Many places, many genders is what popped into my mind only after watching the show. I’m a sucker for real gender neutrality when it comes to ready to wear fashion, and it looked to me that Brognano took a tethering approach for the men’s closet. Each menswear piece looked to have been coming straight from the womenswear section and highlighted sexy silhouettes by accentuating places like their shoulders and dropped hips. And while they definitely took a step toward the gender neutral side of fashion I still used the word “teetering.” I really do this there could have been a larger jump in the sand (no mermaid pun intended) for "Underwater” menswear. I would have loved to see corsets, cross shaped cut outs and thong lines on the men as well, but nonetheless the looks gave men a taste of the fun fashion life instead of the simple shapes and designs they usually get.
Shape is an interesting thing when it comes to design and when it comes to fashion I find myself attracted to a small number of things. Texture and fabric and sometimes even quality can’t grasp me like a silhouette can. I’ll also add that I am one to favour collections that not only hug the body and show off a lot of skin but ones that give a new take on a classic shape. Now while the “Underwater” collection doesn’t really stand out in this aspect, nor do I think it was intending to, I think the low rise bottoms and high hemmed tops were an oldy-but-a-goody kind of decision from brognano. This may feel tiring and overdone to some eyes, but my eyes say “yum” every time I see it on the runway.
Now if anyone is reading this (cough Brognano cough), somethingI was curious about when watching the show was its use of denim. When I think underwater, my mind usually slips into the thought of chiffon and silk, but denim made its aggressive appearance in this collection and I have to say I enjoyed it immensely. There are a lot of items in the “ready-to-wear” category from other designers that don't actually seem to be intended for the average person at all, but what I liked about Bluemarine’s spring/summer collection this year was that pieces could be separated from each other and not be left lonely. Everyone would have a chance to style something down if the occasion called for it.
As for the rest of the collection, it carried muted tones in a way that didn’t feel drab with the help of layered silks and pops of blue, and each garment and piece kept their consistent trumpet shape in a way that still focused on a form fitting technique around the waste, hips, and thighs. And if I may say so myself. I thought it was simply a fresh take on the outfit combinations millenials have been doing for years, and will definitely use as more inspiration for the future.
